London Luxury Quarter Insider

Second Issue

A NOTE FROM THE CHAIRMAN: THE INAUGURAL LONDON LUXURY QUARTER CONFERENCE: THE EVOLUTION OF LUXURY

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On 21 October we hosted our first annual London Luxury Conference at BAFTA 195 Piccadilly. Welcoming member businesses from across Mayfair, St James’s and Piccadilly, the conference gave guests the opportunity to meet, share and gather insights and collectively celebrate the global centre for luxury that London Luxury Quarter represents. The conference also brought together a host of prominent commentators to give their unique perspectives on the Quarter’s positioning as the most sought after destination for the world’s finest luxury retail, cultural, leisure and hospitality brands and office occupiers.

The programme opened with a keynote address from Justine Picardie – Editor in Chief of Harper’s Bazaar and Town & Country, a firm advocate of London Luxury Quarter as the celebrated epicentre of luxury. Justine touched on her personal anecdotes of the Quarter and what it means to her as the editor of the one of the world’s greatest luxury titles. This was then followed by an ‘in conversation with …’ British fashion designer Alice Temperley MBE who explained the rationale and thinking behind making London Luxury Quarter the location of choice for her flagship store [see interview below].

A panel of five leading luxury insiders then took to the stage to discuss how London’s luxury offer [the highest concentration of which can be found in London Luxury Quarter] is at the centre of the attraction of capital and to analyse its roots causes, opportunities and challenges. The eminent panel included Guy Grainger, UK Chief Executive, JLL; Dr Pippa Malmgren, policy analyst and advisor to the White House; James Cooksey, Head of Central London, The Crown Estate; Craig McWilliam, Executive Director, Grosvenor Britain and Ireland and Ranjit Mathrani, Chairman, MW Eat, owners of Chutney Mary and Veeraswamy.

The discussions centred on the findings from the London Luxury Quarter commissioned JLL report and covered two core topics: the changing face of brand space and the impact of the international investor – visitor and developer.

For me, it is London Luxury Quarter‘s unique and distinct offering, which allows the area to fully harness the capital that is flowing into the city. With the prospect of even greater opportunities to come as the area continues to develop, we have the ability to attract investors looking to maximise on a lively and diverse portfolio. For Dr Pippa Malmgren, it boils down to human capital and the facilities to nurture talent in the Quarter. With London predicted to be the second-most important technology location in the world, there will be significant wealth created from this mega-opportunity.

LLQ conference panel

Summarising his views, James Cooksey, The Crown Estate, believes it is essential to keep an eye on the wider world in order to ensure long-term prosperity and understand how the UK is viewed internationally. Extensive investment in their luxury portfolio is now at the centre of their strategy, with the key aims being to offer new and improved units for retailers and restaurants and to provide new and refurbished existing offices and residences, as well as improving the welcome for international visitors by investing in public spaces around buildings.

As for Craig McWilliam, Grosvenor Britain and Ireland, he believes diversity and adaptability are what makes London Luxury Quarter special, competing against other global luxury destinations. With its unique composition of art, culture, shopping, places to work and live, public spaces and parks and incredible evocative brands, these factors both appeal and complement other brands and businesses looking to invest in the area.

Personifying the sentiment of the conference was Ranjit Mathrani, Chairman of MW Eat, owners of new entrant to the Quarter, Chutney Mary. Confirming that Mayfair and St James’s’ position on the global stage as a world class destination led to his decision to relocate Chutney Mary from Chelsea to London Luxury Quarter. In St James’s he believes his business can really thrive.

Other findings from the report revealed that nearly £5bn comes into the area annually through retail and leisure spend alone. With more than £1.3bn of investment set to be injected into the Quarter over the next five to ten years from property owner developments and international investment, and inflation in unstable markets driving people to the security of the UK, the report and discussions revealed that the opportunity to capture all aspects of capital are currently at an all-time high. For a full copy of the JLL report, click here.

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THE LUXURY INSIDER TALKS TO… ALICE TEMPERLEY, MBE

Award winning British fashion designer Alice Temperley MBE, talks to London Luxury Insider about her perceptions of the evolving luxury industry as she celebrates her 15 years in the business as an independent luxury brand. Described by American Vogue as the designer making the biggest waves in British fashion and recently as the “English Ralph Lauren”, Alice Temperley launched her label Temperley London in 2000 and has a flagship store on Bruton Street.

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Alice Temperley MBE speaks to the London Luxury Quarter

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RETAIL, ART AND FOOD ICONS ARRIVE IN LONDON LUXURY QUARTER

London Luxury Quarter continues to attract some of the world’s most prestigious international brands with a wave of new store openings across the area.

In and around Bond Street, Chanel opened at 173 New Bond Street with a redesigned fine jewellery department and the elite jewellery proposition of the Quarter continues to prosper with the launch of luxury jewellery brand De Grisogono which opened on Bond Street in time for the Christmas trading period. Maximising the seasonal relevance, Moncler will arrive at 26 Old Bond Street in the New Year, the former temporary site of Chanel fine jewellery, with its coveted collection of quilted coats and jackets.

Mount Street welcomes three new retail residents – Christian Dior jewellery, Italian fashion label Marni and iconic French fashion label Paco Rabanne on the back of the high profile arrivals of Christopher Kane, Balmain and Erdem on South Audley Street in the last year. Meanwhile, Conduit Street has been selected as the new site for the flagship store for Scottish outerwear brand Mackintosh and impeccable tailoring and innovative design comes to London Luxury Quarter’s emerging arts district in Bourdon Street with the first ever store opening for former Central Saint Martins Graduate, Hussein Chalayan.

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Named by Time Magazine as one of the top 100 fashion icons of all time, the Chalayan brand is renowned for its innovative creations which bridge the gap between art, design and technology. The new store will showcase Chalayan’s women’s and men’s ready-to-wear lines.

International men’s lifestyle brand Roy Robson opened a pop up store on Duke Street further strengthening the menswear retail offer in the Quarter and sitting alongside Parisian brand AMI with its first UK flagship store at number 75. Founded in 2011 by Alexandre Mattiussi who previously trained at Givenchy, Dior and Marc Jacobs, AMI offers ready-to-wear distinctly Parisian menswear.

The former Castle Gallery on Bruton Street is now home to Lebanese fashion designer Ellie Saab showcasing his exquisite collection of ready to wear and accessories. Turnbull & Asser, leading Royal Warrant shirt-maker that has long been anchored on Jermyn Street, has opened a new store on Davies Street continuing the history of 120 years of shirt making for a host of prestigious clients and world leaders.

Looking to sell are antique dealers SJ Phillips at 139 Bond Street and the Arts Club at 40 Dover Street. Relocating is body and skincare brand Bamford, who now reside on South Audley Street.

New destination restaurants to arrive in London Luxury Quarter include Jamie Oliver’s steak restaurant Barbecoa at 194-196 Piccadilly complete with its impressive array of American whiskies, Milos on 1 Regent Street St James’s, recognised as one of the finest Mediterranean seafood restaurants in the world and Richard Caring’s much anticipated Asian fish and seafood restaurant Sexy Fish on Berkeley Square with its onyx rich interior scheme and Damien Hirst mermaid inspired wall plaque.

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BRICKS AND MORTAR CONTINUE TO DOMINATE

As the findings of the JLL report prove, investment in new developments in London Luxury Quarter continues with a plethora of innovative new projects.

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Art and Design come to Mayfair

The new Gagosian Gallery from Grosvenor which opened on 10 October at 20 Grosvenor Hill has attracted much acclaim as an integral part of Grosvenor’s long-term transformation of Mayfair. It draws on the area’s art and design heritage and adds to a string of recent additions including the Phillips gallery and sales room in Berkeley Square and the Beaumont Hotel, which opened alongside Sir Anthony Gormley’s habitable sculpture ROOM at the renovated Brown Hart Gardens last year. 20 Grosvenor Hill’s exterior is by award-winning architects TateHindle. The 22,000 square feet gallery’s interior, which includes double height day-lit spaces, is designed by Caruso St. John, which also designed Gagosian galleries in Rome and Paris, and the successful redevelopment of Tate Britain.

The improved public areas around Grosvenor Hill have been funded by Grosvenor and designed by international architectural practice BDP. New streetscapes include striped granite paving, trees and lighting, with pedestrians given priority. This new thoroughfare at Grosvenor Hill creates an excellent connection between Bond Street, Berkeley Square and Mount Street.

Developers Native Land with agents Pilcher Hershman and joint agents Nash Bond are also bringing art to London Luxury Quarter. A unique new building designed by Rogers Stirk Harbour and Partners – The Cork Street Galleries, Mayfair – will provide up to 25,000 square feet of ground floor gallery space with 4 metre tall ceilings allocated exclusively for the use of between five to six galleries. This designated space will attract new creative influences into the Quarter and strengthen the areas’s reputation as an artistic destination.

As well as the ground floor gallery areas, upstairs will be allocated to luxury residential apartments.
The project looks likely to be complete early 2017.

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Public meets Private

Merging public and private interests, Grosvenor has submitted a planning application with Westminster City Council to open the St Mark’s building in North Audley Street to the public on a regular basis. The application proposes a £5m repair and restoration of the former church, letting 14,500 square feet of space for retail and hospitality while providing a much-needed meeting and event area in the basement for local community groups and charities.

The investment in St Mark’s is part of Grosvenor’s long-term transformation of North Mayfair and plans include retaining or reinstating all of the building’s heritage features and installing an impressive glass staircase, providing access to the first floor gallery. Since 2009 the building has been used as a private events space known as One Mayfair and, subject to planning consent, Grosvenor aims to commence restoration works in summer 2016 and to open the doors to the public in late 2017.

Eye for Detail

Knight Frank makes its fourth acquisition near Old Bond Street with new premises for client, designer optician, Arthur Morrice at 5-6 Stafford Street. This again demonstrates the on-going demand for premium designer brands to attain placement in one of London’s most sought after retail locations. Previously occupied by luxury Swiss footwear brand Lele Pyp, the three level retail site has 217 square feet of ground floor space.

One Berkeley Street

Adjaye Associates for Crosstree Real Estate Partners has won planning permission for a £600m redevelopment of an entire city block opposite The Ritz London in Piccadilly. The scheme, known as One Berkeley Street, also addresses Piccadilly and Dover Street. As their biggest London project to date, the project involves a luxury mixed-use development – a 36,546 square metre complex replacing a block of disused post-war buildings on Piccadilly.

The 10-storey building will incorporate retail units at street level, with a hotel occupying parts of the ground and first floors. The upper floors are designated for residential use and the development also incorporates Dover Yard – a pedestrianised thoroughfare that will be redeveloped to create a landscaped public plaza.

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CULTURE AND LEISURE CONTINUE TO THRIVE

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Les Voyageurs – La femme assise by Cedric Le Borgne for Lumiere London

As a destination for the finest cultural and leisure experiences, the Quarter continues to provide a diverse range of entertainment options. The Royal Academy of Arts is staging two new exhibitions running until 31 January 2016 including “The Waterloo Collection” from Irish history, literary and portrait painter Daniel Maclise and works by Swiss French 18th century artist Jean Etienne – a celebration of the era of Enlightenment.

Gallery – Erskine, Hall & Coe at 28 Bond Street hosted a successful exhibition for Japanese ceramics artist Shozo Michikawa – The Forbidden City in October and November and Getty Images Gallery staged a month long photo exhibit – The Grit and The Glamour – marking 30 years since Elizabeth Taylor began her fight against HIV/AIDS. The “Then for Now” exhibition at The Delfina Foundation welcomed acclaimed artists including Eva Rothschild who returned to their roots to support the next generation of artists at the Foundation.

From 14-17 January, London Luxury Quarter will also see some of its most historic and landmark destinations in a new light as part of the Mayor of London’s Lumiere London campaign. Piccadilly, Oxford Circus, Regent Street and Jermyn Street are all set to showcase extraordinary lighting installations from a host of pioneering international artists including Janet Echelman, TILT, Benedetto Bufalino and Deepa Mann Kler.

Sotheby’s and Bonhams continue to curate a diverse calendar of auctions. Sotheby’s hosted Rock & Roll music memorabilia and Made in Britain sales at the end of September and auctions on Irish and Scottish Art in October and November. December sales of Fine European Ceramics, The Russian Sale and Fine and Rare wines are scheduled at Bonhams.

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